Does the stump have to come out at all?

Not always. If nothing is going in that spot and the species does not sucker, letting it decay is a reasonable choice. If you are planting, paving or building there, or the species regrows, it needs removing.

Can I plant a new tree where the old one was?

Only once the stump and main roots are out and the ground has been backfilled with soil rather than chip. Chip robs nitrogen as it breaks down, and any honey fungus in the remaining wood will attack the replacement.

How deep does stump grinding go?

It depends on the use. A lawn needs less depth than a patio, a shed base or new planting, so tell the contractor what the space is for and the depth is specified from that rather than guessed.

Why do shoots keep coming up across the lawn?

Because some species sucker from roots well away from the stump, so the roots are still alive even after the stump has gone. Those need treating or removing rather than just mowing off.

Low risk

Updated 30 August 2026

Stump Left After Felling

A stump has been left in the lawn or border, and it is either sprouting again, rotting away or simply in the way.

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What's happening?

A cut stump is still a living root system for many species, which is why some sprout vigorously from the collar and from roots metres away — willow, poplar, sycamore, cherry, lime and laurel among them. Others simply decay, and that is not neutral either: a decaying stump is a food source for honey fungus, which spreads through the soil and can kill a wide range of woody plants around it. So the choice is not cosmetic. Grinding removes the stump and the main root plate mechanically, leaving a mixture of chip and soil that can be dug out and replaced. Chemical stump treatment kills regrowth but leaves the wood in the ground. What you plan to do with the space decides which one you need.

What usually causes it?

Felling quoted and carried out without stump removal, which is a separate operation
Species that regenerate strongly from the stump and from surviving roots
A stump left in a lawn, where it is a mowing obstruction and a trip hazard
A stump in the way of new paving, a shed base, a fence line or planting
Decay in the stump attracting honey fungus, which then spreads to other plants
Suckers appearing across the lawn or a border from roots well away from the stump
A stump too close to a wall, a drain or a service run for straightforward grinding

Is it dangerous?

Low risk, with two practical exceptions. A stump hidden in grass is a genuine trip hazard, particularly at the edge of a lawn or on a route people take in the dark, and it will damage a mower. And where a stump is left to rot next to valued shrubs and trees, honey fungus can move from it into them. Nothing here is urgent, but leaving a sprouting stump usually costs more later: suckers are harder to deal with once they have established their own root systems.

Can I fix it myself?

Decide what the space is for, then match the method. Cutting the stump flush and letting a non-suckering species rot down is a legitimate choice if you are not planting or paving there. Repeatedly cutting suckers off as they appear will eventually exhaust some species but takes years and rarely wins against willow or poplar. Digging a small stump out by hand is feasible; a mature one is not, because the root plate is far wider than the trunk suggests. Do not hire a grinder without knowing what is buried nearby — a grinder into a cable, a water pipe or a drain is a much bigger problem than the stump. Stump treatment products must be used strictly to the label.

When should you call a tree surgeon?

Call a tree surgeon when the stump is in the way of planting, paving or a structure, when it is regrowing, or when it is close to a wall, drain or service run. Get it done alongside the felling if the tree has not come down yet, since one visit with the machine on site is simpler than two. Make it a priority where honey fungus is suspected, because the stump and roots are the reservoir.

What will the tree surgeon actually do?

Check for services, drains and structures around the stump before any machine work
Grind the stump and the main root plate to the depth the intended use needs, rather than a token skim
Excavate larger roots where paving, a base or a foundation is going over the area
Remove or spread the grindings and backfill with topsoil so the ground can be planted or built on
Treat or remove suckering roots where the species will otherwise regrow away from the stump
Take out infected stump and root material where honey fungus is present, to limit spread to nearby plants

Frequently asked questions

We’re happy to answer all your questions.

Sources & References

Fungus Growing On The TrunkHigh risk Tree Roots Near The HouseCaution Ash Tree Dying BackHigh risk

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