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Lead Flashing Coming Away From The Wall

Lead flashing coming away means the lead strip where your roof meets a wall, chimney, or extension has lifted, split, or pulled out of the brickwork joint. In UK homes that joint is what throws water clear of the tiles: when it fails, rain enters high up and often shows as a damp patch on a ceiling or wall nowhere near the fault. Do not smear mastic over the lead. From a window or the ground, look for a lifted edge, a split fold, or lead standing proud of the brick joint, then book a roofer before the timber behind the abutment soaks for another season.
Updated
How urgent
Caution
Who fixes it
A roofer

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What's happening?

Lead flashing coming away is a failed weatherproof joint wherever a roof slope abuts something vertical: a chimney, a parapet, a house wall above an extension roof, or a dormer cheek. Lead is the traditional UK material because it can be dressed to shape and lasts decades when jointed properly. It works by being tucked into a raked-out mortar joint, wedged, and then pointed, so water running down the wall is thrown out over the tiles rather than behind them. Lead also moves a great deal with temperature, and that movement is what eventually splits it or works it out of the joint. Picture a neighbour's extension after a wet week: a dark stain on the upstairs ceiling, and from the garden you can see a strip of lead standing proud of the brick course at the abutment: that is the typical scene. When flashing fails, water enters at the top of a slope and runs a long way inside before it appears, so the damp patch is rarely below the fault.

What usually causes it?

  • Lead sheet cut too long between joints, so thermal expansion has nowhere to go and the lead fatigue-cracks along a fold
  • Pointing above the flashing perished, letting the upstand pull free of the raked joint
  • Wedges missing or never fitted, so the lead was only held by mortar
  • Lead laid over a wide span in one piece rather than in stepped sections following the brick courses
  • Mastic or cement-based repairs applied over old lead, which crack away and trap water behind them
  • Corrosion from contact with other metals, or from run-off carrying moss and organic acids
  • Lead theft or damage from earlier work such as satellite dish or cable installation drilling through the upstand

Is it dangerous?

The flashing itself is unlikely to injure anyone: lead is soft and tends to flap rather than fall. The risk from lead flashing coming away is water damage, and it is often serious because flashing leaks sit high on the structure and soak concealed timber. Wall plates, rafter feet and lintels above an abutment can rot for years unnoticed. Where the flashing serves a chimney, water in the stack also brings salts into the plaster inside. Old lead is not a health risk to touch briefly, but wash your hands and do not let children handle offcuts.

Can I fix it myself?

Inspect and document, then stop. From a window or from the ground with a zoom, look along the whole flashing line for lifted edges, splits at the folds, dark staining on the wall below, or a strip of lead standing proud of the brick joint. Inside, check the ceiling and wall on the room side of that abutment after rain. Do not smear mastic or roof sealant over lead: it is the most common homeowner repair here and it makes the eventual fix more expensive because it has to be cleaned off, and it holds water against the lead in the meantime. Do not lean a ladder against a flashing to look. Leave dressing, wedging, and re-pointing to a competent roofer with safe access.

When should you call a roofer?

Call a roofer within a couple of weeks if the lead flashing has lifted but nothing is wet indoors, and within days if you have damp appearing on the wall or ceiling below the abutment. Bring it forward if the flashing is on a chimney, on a parapet, or above a habitable room, because those leaks reach structural timber fastest. If a long section of lead has gone missing entirely, treat it as urgent. This page does not publish fixed roofing prices. Confirm the cost for your property on Instant Quote.

What will the roofer actually do?

  • Set up safe access to the abutment, which usually means a tower or scaffold rather than a ladder resting on the roof
  • Strip the failed flashing and any mastic or cement bodges, and inspect the brickwork, timber and tiles behind it
  • Rake out the mortar joint to the correct depth, following the brick courses in steps where the roof runs up a wall
  • Dress new lead of the appropriate code to shape in lengths short enough to allow thermal movement, wedge the upstand into the raked joint, re-point in a mortar suited to the wall and dress the apron down over the tiles
  • Check the soaker or step flashings under individual tiles at the same time, since these fail alongside the visible apron
  • Report on timber condition behind the flashing so any rot is dealt with rather than covered up

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Questions people ask

Sources & References

  1. NFRC: Technical Guidance
  2. Approved Document C: Resistance To Moisture
  3. HSE: Roof Work

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