Thumping or grinding — does the difference matter?

Very much. A rhythmic thump that grows with spin speed is imbalance, usually shock absorbers, a loose counterweight or an unlevel machine, and is often cheap to put right. A constant metallic grinding is bearings, which is the expensive repair and the one that decides whether the machine is worth keeping.

It has banged since the day it was delivered.

Check the transit bolts. They are fitted to hold the drum during transport and must be removed before first use; a machine that has never spun quietly is the classic case. The manual shows their positions at the back of the cabinet.

Is it the floor rather than the machine?

It can be, particularly on a suspended timber floor upstairs or on soft vinyl over floorboards. Level the machine properly first, then check whether it rocks when pushed at a top corner. Anti-vibration pads help a machine that is otherwise sound, but they will not mask failed suspension or bearings.

Can I keep using it while it is noisy?

For imbalance, yes, once it is levelled and loaded sensibly. For grinding bearings, no — continuing risks the shaft seal, which lets water into the bearing and the motor and ends the machine. Either way, do not leave a noisy machine running overnight or while you are out.

Caution

Updated 30 August 2026

Washing Machine Banging And Walking On Spin

A violent thumping or grinding as the drum ramps up, sometimes hard enough to move the machine across the floor.

Find an appliance repair engineer

Appliance repair work, illustrative image

What's happening?

Spin is where a washing machine's mechanical condition shows. A drum spinning at over a thousand revolutions a minute is held steady by suspension legs or shock absorbers, counterweights bolted to the tub, and bearings that let it turn true. When any of those goes, the imbalance becomes noise and movement. The character of the sound is the clue: a rhythmic thumping that builds with speed is usually imbalance from failed shock absorbers or a loose counterweight, a continuous metallic grinding is bearings, and a rattling or scraping is often something loose inside the drum or between drum and tub. There is also one cause that is not a fault — transit bolts left in after installation, which is a new-machine problem rather than a worn one.

What usually causes it?

Worn or failed suspension legs or shock absorbers, so the tub is no longer damped
Failed drum bearings — grinding or rumbling that gets worse over weeks
A loose or cracked concrete counterweight, or its bolts backed off
An object between the drum and the outer tub — coins, wires, a small item through the perforations
Feet not levelled, or a locking nut not tightened, letting the machine rock on the floor
A soft, uneven or springy floor, particularly suspended timber upstairs
Transit bolts never removed after delivery, on a machine that has always been noisy
Habitually unbalanced loads — single duvets and heavy items washed alone

Is it dangerous?

It can be. A machine that walks across the floor puts strain on the inlet hoses and the waste connection, and a hose pulled off under mains pressure floods a kitchen quickly. A drum that is grinding is heading for failure, and a machine allowed to hammer itself for months can crack a tub or damage the cabinet. On an upstairs suspended floor, sustained violent spinning is worth stopping — both for the machine and for the floor. Add the standard advice not to run washing machines overnight or while out, and a noisy machine is one to be present for.

Can I fix it myself?

Level it and load it properly, which fixes a surprising share of cases. Check every foot is firmly on the floor with its locknut tightened, and use a spirit level rather than eye. Confirm the transit bolts came out — the manual shows where they are, and a machine that has thumped since day one is the prime suspect. Wash duvets and single heavy items with something to balance them. With the machine unplugged, turn the drum by hand and listen, and reach inside to feel for anything trapped at the bottom of the tub. Suspension and bearings are not homeowner repairs.

When should you call an appliance repair engineer?

Call an engineer once levelling and loading have been ruled out, and call promptly if the noise is a metallic grinding rather than a thump — bearings do not recover, and running one to destruction can wreck the tub and the shaft seal, which turns a repair into a replacement. Also call if the drum has visible movement at the rim, if the machine has started leaking as well, or if you can hear something rolling around between drum and tub.

What will the appliance repair engineer actually do?

Level the machine and check the feet and locknuts before assuming a component has failed
Confirm transit bolts are out and the drum is free of trapped objects
Test the shock absorbers and suspension for damping rather than just presence
Check drum bearing play at the rim and listen to the drum spun by hand and under power
Check counterweight bolts and the tub for cracking around the mountings
Fit suspension, counterweight fixings or bearings where economic, and advise honestly where it is not

Frequently asked questions

We’re happy to answer all your questions.

Sources & References

Washing Machine Not SpinningLow risk Washing Machine Leaking WaterCaution Tumble Dryer Not Drying ClothesHigh risk

Need an appliance repair engineer?

Compare local appliance repair engineers on Tradehand — coverage areas, accreditations and phone numbers, no middleman.