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Crumbling Lime Plaster In An Old House
Soft, sandy plaster in an older property is falling away, often where a modern repair meets it.
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What's happening?
Lime plaster is a different material doing a different job. It is softer and more porous than gypsum, it lets a solid wall absorb and release moisture, and it moves a little rather than cracking. That is why it survived two centuries on walls with no damp proof course. It fails when that system is interrupted: a gypsum or cement patch is harder and less porous than the lime around it, so moisture is pushed into the surrounding lime and the salts crystallise there instead, and the old plaster goes sandy in a halo around the new repair. The pattern is diagnostic. Failure concentrated around a modern patch, behind a cement render, or under a sealed paint is a compatibility problem, not old age, and repairing it with the same material repeats it.
What usually causes it?
- Gypsum or cement patch repairs in a lime wall, concentrating moisture and salts into the lime beside them
- Cement render or hard pointing outside stopping the wall drying outward, so the moisture leaves through the inside face
- Modern impermeable paints or a vinyl wall covering sealing the internal face of a breathable wall
- A raised external ground level, failed rainwater goods or a leak keeping that part of the wall wet
- Hygroscopic salts in the plaster from long-term damp, holding moisture out of the room air
- Loss of the original hair reinforcement or the plaster's key on riven laths as it dries and ages
- Injected or tanked damp treatments applied to a solid breathable wall, moving the problem rather than removing it
Is it dangerous?
Falling lime plaster is a nuisance rather than a hazard on a wall, though a lath and plaster ceiling losing its key is a different matter entirely and is treated as urgent. The real cost of leaving it is that the damage spreads: as lime goes sandy, more of the wall behind it gets wet, embedded timber such as bonding timbers, lintels and joist ends stays damp, and wet rot becomes a possibility. Removal is also dusty work on a material that may contain animal hair and a century of dust, and HSE's construction dust guidance applies to the demolition and preparation as much as to cutting new material.
Can I fix it myself?
Small areas, if you use lime. Raking out loose material, damping down and filling with a haired lime mortar is genuinely achievable, and it will not damage the wall the way a bag of hard multi-finish will. What matters is the sequence: fix what is wetting the wall, let it dry, and only then repair, in a mix no stronger than the original. Do not patch with gypsum, do not skim over sandy lime, and do not seal the wall with a modern paint or a waterproof coating afterwards — every one of those pushes the moisture into the next section of lime and widens the failure.
When should you call a plasterer?
Call a plasterer who works in lime where a whole wall or ceiling is affected, where salts keep coming through, or where earlier gypsum or cement repairs need reversing. Take advice before any work if the building is listed or in a conservation area. Where the cause is outside — cement pointing, hard render, ground levels or rainwater goods — that is fixed first, because a correct lime repair on a wall that is still being wetted will still salt and soften.
What will the plasterer actually do?
- Identify the original plaster and the background, so the repair matches rather than outperforms them
- Cut out incompatible gypsum or cement repairs that are concentrating moisture into the surrounding lime
- Rake back to sound material with dust control, keeping the sound lime and any hair reinforcement intact
- Rebuild in haired lime coats to match the original thickness, key and finish, with proper curing between coats
- Protect the repair while it carbonates, and advise on a breathable decoration rather than a sealing paint
- Refer external cement render, hard pointing or ground level faults to the trade that owns them
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